Where I Ate in Nagoya
Miso Nikomi Udon
Aichi Prefecture, where Nagoya is situated, is known for its production of miso - specifically, hatcho miso, a redder, darker variant made of soybean. As expected, many of the regional specialties are miso-based dishes, including miso nikomi udon. This dish uses thicker udon, which is served boiling hot in an eartenware pot with miso-dashi broth and toppings, such as chicken, egg, fish cake, tofu, shiitake, and scallions. Once served, the lid is lifted and inverted, serving as the eating vessel, where small portions are ladled out to cool more quickly to a temperature that won’t destroy your mouth.
Where I went: Yamamotoya
Morning Service
Cafe culture is a staple of Nagoya, which is especially known for its breakfast. Although this includes many dishes, one of the specialties is ogura toast, or toast with red bean paste. Personally, I couldn’t resist getting the omusando (omelet sandwich) and a cup of pleasantly surprising, strong coffee. There are a multitude of cafes to choose from. The one that I went to reminded me of a chain breakfast joint, although with better food, more tasteful decor, and the most friendly, borderline-singsongy staff.
Where I went: Konparu
Kishimen
Kishimen, another Nagoya specialty, is a type of flat udon. Although I do not generally like cold noodles, the unbearable summer heat led me to choose the zaru kishimen option over my standard order of hot noodles in broth. The place where I decided to try it is located on the grounds of Nagoya Castle. The building is open air, and despite the lack of AC, it provided enough shade for comfort. At this location, I also got to experience ordering from a vending machine, although mercifully, the machine I used had an English option.
Where I went: Nagoyajo Kishimentei
Zar Kishimen: cold noodles with a cold dipping broth and a side of grated ginger
Tenmusu
Tenmusu are a type of rice ball filled with shrimp tempura, although they are much smaller than typical onigiri. I chose to have a sit down meal, which came as a lunch set, although most places also offer pre-packed tenmusu for take out. I can personally attest that a pack of tenmusu, hours later and cold, still make an excellent and delicious snack.
Where I went: Jiraiya
For the lunch set, you could chose the number of tenmusu, but all came with miso soup, a few side dishes (a small … potato salad? and some braised vegetables, shiitake, yuba, and fish cake), and a green tea pudding for dessert.
Histumabushi
Hitsumabushi is an unagi dish that can be enjoyed three different ways. Once served, you should divide the dish into four sections, which are scooped out into another, smaller bowl to eat from. The first portion is meant to be enjoyed as is, to savor the natural flavor of the eel and rice. The next portion is to be enjoyed with toppings, which usually include wasabi and scallion. The third portion you pour green tea or eel broth over, transforming it into ochazuke. And finally, the last portion can be enjoyed however you like.
Where I went: Hitsumabushi Bincho
